There are several reasons you might choose one facility over another. Nearby is one, price and friends are others. These are all good reasons but they shouldn't be your only considerations. If possible, visit the yard before you commit to a haul out. Determine if its lifts and other machinery seem well maintained. Are the premises well kept? How well does the management treat the boats under it's control? The way a yard treats its equipment and facilities can give you some indication of how it will treat your boat.
There are, of course, risks entailed every time you haul a boat. Boats have been damaged in every form of hauling - trailers, cranes, mobile lifts, and railways. It is best to stay completely away from your boat while it is being hauled. If it is damaged, you want to be sure that the responsibility for the damage lies with the person hauling the boat. It is extremely rare that a boat owner will be more knowledgeable than the marina operators about how a boat should be hauled. If you do think that you are more knowledgeable, then this is a hint to you that you should look elsewhere. If you have any doubt about the competence of the yard, watch how they haul other boats before committing your baby into their hands. Were you satisfied with the way your boat was cared for during the summer dockage? Look at the condition of the docks. Are they well maintained or do you have to bring it to the attention of the dock master when repairs are needed. Did the marina provide entrance buoys to the marina? Was the area kept clean, repaired and free of junk? If excellent service isn't provided in the summer, don't expect it in the winter. Are there sufficient fire extinguishers? Are they all maintained properly? Were the trash cans emptied before overflowing? Is the operator out to make a buck or to make you feel like your getting your moneys worth. Also look into the services and facilities the yard offers, since its possible you'll discover projects demanding special expertise, tools, and equipment. Sailboats should be hauled using a travel lift. A fork lift can be used on smaller power boats.
Jack Stands
When you say a boat is better off stored on land, you are assuming it will be
resting on something that provides adequate support. Are the jack stands that the Yard uses
in good condition? Are they resting on plywood? Does the yard use too few to provide adequate support? More boats are damaged by mis-handling ashore than are damaged in the water. Jack stands will be crushed and sailboats will topple over in very high winds if the mast is in place and not unstepped.
A minimum of 7 jack stands should be used to store all boats over 26 foot. The
stand should be perpendicular to the hull so it directs the boats weight toward the ground. Safety chains must be used to prevent stands from slipping out from under the hull. Rope or wire is not recommended as it can stretch and allow the stands to slip. Nothing should be tied to the stands except the chain. Plywood must be placed under each base to prevent sinking in the mud, sand or asphalt. After the boat is blocked, sight along the hull and keel to make sure the jack stands aren't depressing the hull. The stands should be checked again in two weeks after the boat settles and also during freeze thaw cycles, before, during and after storms. Talk to customers of the yard. Did any boats fall over last season. If they did, the yard crew isn't doing their job and you don't want to keep your boat there.
Blocking:
Use a minimum of two sets of keel blocking per boat. Keel blocking should be distributed to prevent high local loading. Barrels and cinder blocks should not be used for blocking. Minimum block dimensions for boats less than 30 feet is 4 inches wide by 18 inches long. For boats 31 - 40 feet, 6 inches x 18 inches and for boats over 41 feet, 8 inches x 18 inches. The minimum dimension measured fore and aft along the keel should be four inches nominal per block. If the blocking is over two tiers, it should be cribbed. Cribbing height should not exceed 1 1/2 times the minimum base footprint dimensions.
Choosing a yard
Choose a yard with a large, skilled staff capable of everything from fiber
glass repair to engine alignment. Does the staff have the experience necessary to haul your
boat? Talk to customers of the yard and see if they are satisfied. Will you have access to
your boat with your car? When will the yard be closed? Will
you have water and electric? Because of greater environmental regulation, do-it-yourself
yards are becoming rare. The yards staff or sub-contractors are likely to undertake most of
the hull work, but to ensure that your boat gets the attention it needs, you should be
familiar with what should take place. Shop around and compare prices.
Unstepping the mast
Must you unstep the mast? Windage is the primary reason that
you should take your mast down when the boat is to be stored out of the
water over the winter in a northern climate. Boats can blow over, and
while a mast may not seem like much windage, just consider that your boat
is an object on the end of a very long lever - the mast. It doesn’t take
much force at the end of a 40’ mast to tip over a boat. The bulk of the weight of the boat is supported by the keel that sits on a block of wood on the ground. The stands keep the boat upright and level, not supporting a lot of weight. They will be crushed and topple over in very high winds if the mast is in place. The money you
might save by leaving the mast in just isn’t worth the risk, especially when
you add on the wear and tear on your mast and rigging, and the difficulty of
fitting a cover around the mast and standing rigging.
It is customary to unstep the mast when hauling the
boat to reduce windage, which can tip the boat off kilter in high winter winds and induce
the rig to vibrate if it is up, leading to cracked fittings. Extreme temperatures stress the
rig by causing dissimilar metals in the spars and rigging to expand and contract at different
rates. Aluminum masts, in particular, are affected by this problem and should be taken down.
Don't be penny wise - pound foolish. The cost of unstepping the mast now can be less than
expensive repairs later. Some insurance companies don't cover the boat for damages if the
mast is stepped. Check your contract. Some marinas claim they aren't responsible for damages
when the mast is stepped, but they are responsible, just as a parking lot is responsible even
though their sign says they aren't. Manufacturers claim there is no harm in leaving carbon
fiber masts (which are not impacted by temperature changes) in place through the winter, as
long as the hull is well supported and ice isn't allowed to buildup on the spar.
Should you opt to leave the mast stepped for the winter, relax the entire rig by loosening the turnbuckles for shrouds and stays and tie off the halyards so they won't slap against, and thus nick, the mast. While having the mast down makes it convenient to clean, check, and wax the spars and replace lights, it also means disconnecting the VHF antenna and wiring for lighting. It can mean several trips up the mast in the boson's chair if everything isn't properly reconnected in the spring.
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