Hurricane Warning

Knots and Lines

Making the proper attachment to a cleat or a piling is far more important than one might imagine. What's okay for normal use often fails during the violence of a hurricane. You should have an extra set of new, and slightly oversized storm lines - about 1/4" larger than normal size. By all means, do not depend on aged cordage. Remember that, although an older line may look okay, it may be seriously weakened by ultraviolet or fungicidal degradation that may not be visible. Use new lines for primaries and the normal dock lines as backups or doubles.

When doubling up lines, try to reduce dependency on a particular tie up point. Any time you can double a line to a different point, do it. Two lines tied to one piling or cleat are of no help if the piling or cleat fails. Spread lines to as many different tie points as possible. Consider that under high water conditions, your lines will be angling downward as the water level rises.

Never tie to cleats on pilings. Lines tied to pilings should have a fair lead off the curve of the piling (tangential) and should not be cinched by the knot so that the line is pinched or pulled by the knot. Take only two wraps around the piling, making sure that they do not overlap. Cinch knots or hitches around the piling should not be used as this pinches the rope. Remember that it is the friction of the line around the piling that provides 98% of the holding power. There will be very little pressure on the knot which merely keeps the line from slipping. Do not use bowlines; instead, three simple half-hitches around the standing end are more than adequate and will minimize chafing. Then wrap the free end back around the piling with hitches to keep it in place.

Cleats, Chocks and Pulpits

There is a right way and a wrong way to attach a line to a cleat. Cleats can be troublesome because rope can get pinched and abraded if not tied right. We recommend that only lines with properly made eye splices be attached to cleats. Put the eye through the center hole of the cleat and fold it over. If you have to use hitches, make sure the line leads off the base as fair as possible with minimal potential for chaffing against the hitches.

The rule for cleats is, the larger the better; the smaller the cleat, the more it pinches. Nowadays, mooring cleats seem to be getting smaller and more poorly installed. Now is the time to take a look at how they're attached. Do they have adequate back up plates on the under side? Aluminum or fiberglass blanks make for the best back up plates. Plywood doublers will crush and allow the cleat go loose. Back up plates should be as large as practical, preferably 1.5X the length of the cleat and 1X length wide. If your bow cleats are too small, and don't have adequate back ups, seriously consider replacing them.

Our studies of Hurricane Opal revealed that large numbers of boats broke loose from anchorages and docks because of lines cutting on various areas of bow pulpits. A lot of pulpits have a sharp edges on the underside that can very quickly slice through a line. The motion of a boat in a storm is far more violent than one might imagine. A pitching pulpit can snag a dock line or anchor rode. If the bottom edges of your pulpit are sharp, its a good idea to have the edges rounded over as much as possible.

For chafe protection, we recommend that stiff plastic hose, such as old garden hose, be slid over the end of the line. Plastic hose is slippery and resists abrasion better. The hose should not be slit down the middle because the chances of it coming off are very high. Drill a hole in each end of the hose and tie it to the mooring lines with nylon string, running the string through the laid line to prevent movement. Don't use rags for chafe protection, they won't do the job.

Mooring chocks tend to be particularly troublesome because they're usually poorly designed, tending more to damage the line than protect it. There are several types of mooring chocks that are extremely bad this way, having sharp corners. If your chocks are like this, get them replaced and make sure that they have good back up plates below. Many are just screwed on and won't hold. Through bolting into an aluminum back up plate is best. Its better not use a chock than one that's guaranteed to cut the line.

Sailboats in particular have notoriously small, badly shaped and poorly placed cleats and chocks. They are often placed in a cluttered spot on the bow with other equipment that will cut the lines. This is one of the reasons why so many sail boats break loose. If this describes your boat, consider upgrading if you want your boat to survive a hurricane.

Tophamper

Anything that increases the windage above the superstructure is called tophamper. Virtually all canvass, tops and sails and enclosures should be removed from the vessel. If you can get these off the boat completely, so much the better. Cabins stuffed full of sails and canvass have hampered many a salvage operation. Outriggers should be removed from the boat, as well as antennas, particularly if they're on a tower. Don't hesitate to cut antenna wires, if necessary, to get them off. For sailboats with a lot of external halyards, we recommend that you cut the end and pull them down; they dramatically increase wind resistance aloft. Its also a good idea to remove the boom, if you can, and lash it down ashore.

Check all pedestal seats to be sure that they are securely locked. All exterior cushions, even if secured with snaps, should be removed and stored inside. For loose deck furniture, if you can't remove it, group it together in a corner and thoroughly lash it to railings. Tape up all exposed cabinets and drawers. If you have a Plexiglas bridge windscreen, unscrew it and store it below.

Tuna Towers

A number of sport fishermen with tuna or marlin towers were literally capsized by wind. When the vessel starts to heel over, the Bimini or tower top then starts to catch the wind. Once this happens, it will either capsize or be torn away from the moorings. If a strong category two or higher storm is approaching, we recommend that a Bimini strung on a tower be removed since it won't survive anyway. This will greatly reduce the chance of capsizing. Remove everything that will be wind or water damaged.

Engine Protection

Some yachts sank because the boats heeled over so far that the hull side ventilators went underwater. But also remember that 150 MPH winds eliminate any distinction between sea and sky. Wind-driven water is going to go right into the engine room vents. If the engine room hull side vents are small enough, they can be taped up with duct tape. If the vent is larger, use a thin piece of plywood and screw it directly into the vent cowl or even the hull side if that's all that is available, and then tape over the edges.

Don't forget that on the reverse side of the storm, the boat may be hit by winds from astern. If you don't want to take the chance of water being driven up the exhaust and into your engines, then plugging the pipes is the thing to do. Sailboats and gas engine boats can use simple wood plugs. Sail boat owners absolutely should plug their exhaust lines and close the sea water intake sea cocks. For larger diesel exhausts, the inflatable balls available at most marine stores are the best solution.

If you have a generator under an open cockpit deck, cover it with sheet plastic so it won't get wet. Close the water intake sea cock. If you have the proper size bungs, stop up the exhaust outlet. Tape over with duct tape the fuel and water tank vents on the side of the hull.

Electronics

It should go without saying that all external electronics should be removed. That includes those mounted in covered boxes. After Andrew, we found shredded leaves inside closed, locked electronics boxes. The wind force was so great that it bent the plastic doors, creating gaps. Again, don't hesitate to cut wires and cables for removal. The cost of reinstallation is far less than having to replace costly electronics. If electronics inside boxes cannot be removed, completely tape around the cabinet doors with duct tape to help keep water out. Tape tightly over all instrument faces that can't be removed, as well as switches and the like.

Windows & Hatches

One of the more amazing results of our survey was how well window glass holds up even in the most extreme winds. Less than 5% of all boats we looked at had broken window glass. Plexiglas, on the other hand, fared poorly. However, wind-driven rain is a serious problem that can find its way into the smallest cracks. We also learned that most superstructures on motor yachts are fairly weak. That means that wind stress often distorts superstructures enough open up small gaps in window frames and between glass panels. Also that the wind can set up some really heavy vibration that will rattle sliding glass panels open. Be aware that wind pressures can literally bow window glass and hatches, opening up gaps that you'd never imagine possible. We've found shredded leaves inside boats and couldn't imagine how it got there. We recommend that all windows be locked and taped with duct tape. Tape all joints and seams on both sliding and fixed window glass on the outside. If you have window covers, leave them in place; they often help. Also tape around all hatch covers and entrance doors.

Securing the Interior

We already mentioned how violent the motion of the boat can get, so its wise to take the same precautions on the interior. For example, in the galley clear out all elevated cabinets where doors will open and contents spill out. Even tape probably won't hold the doors shut. Put breakables in boxes down low. Remove all heavy objects that will force doors open during extreme rolling. Anything loose like televisions, bric-a-brac, lamps and the like should be secured on the sole. Prepare for some serious water leaks. Slide furniture away from windows. Raise Venetian blinds and take down drapes; they'll get wet for sure and if a window breaks, they'll cause even more damage. Take up all carpets in lower quarters and place on berths. Roll back or take up carpet in way of exterior doors, then duct tape the door jambs when leaving the boat to keep wind driven water out.

Mattresses on berths in forward cabins in way of port holes and hatches should be wedged up on end so that leaking won't soak them. Strip, pillows, sheets and spreads and store in a safer place.

Don't forget the refrigerator. Clean out all perishables and glass bottles that will slide around and break. Make sure the door is firmly latched. If you have an AC/DC reefer, make sure that is turned OFF so that it won't drain the batteries.

Find the sea cocks for the heads and close them. Close or plug all sink drains. Shut off all other sea cocks except for the main engines.

Disconnect and stow shore power cords away. Electrical power will be lost anyway and leaving it plugged in will only result in the loss of the cord. Turn off all DC circuit breakers except the main and bilge pumps. Then make sure that all pumps are working and the batteries are fully charged.

Sail Boats:

Owners often strip off all sails and canvass and stuff it all down below. Unfortunately, if a boat fills partly up with water, this creates a terrible problem getting these materials out of a flooded cabin. If you can, get all loose sails off the boat. If you take the furling genoa down, again, don't stuff it in the cabin. Tie it to a tree or something, or take it home. The cabin areas should be kept as free as possible to tend to an emergency if necessary.

Imagine hosing down the interior of your boat and then letting it sit for a couple days. That's what the inside of your boat is likely to look like when you finally get to it, many days later. Your boat will leak in ways you never imagined impossible. All that stuff packed into lockers needs to be removed. The easiest way to deal with it is to stow it all in heavy trash bags and seal the ends tight. Then stow them tightly in a high corner somewhere.

Remove vent cowls and heavily tape over the openings.

Take all the bunk and dinette cushions, stand them edgewise and wedge them in place such as around the dinette or a quarter berth.

Close all sink and head sea cocks. Check to be sure that cockpit scuppers are clear. Lock the wheel or lash tiller in the centered position, not to one side. The Bimini top should be removed from the boat, frame and all. Don't try to lash it down because the wind will tear it free. Lash it down ashore. Remove all equipment attached to the lifelines or pulpits.

Duct tape over all windows, ports and hatches around the base. When leaving the boat, tape over the companionway hatch joints.

Express Cruisers

If you have an open cockpit express cruiser, take down the top frame because you'll loose it anyway; if the frame gets loose it will do great damage. Dismantle the top, remove the cover, and stow the frame on the cockpit deck. If you have a canvass instrument cover, it won't help. Instead cover instruments and switches with duct tape, applying in a shingling fashion. Just remember to get it off soon after the storm. Remove electronics and tape up any open holes in the dash. Tape all switches and the ends of the cable connectors. If you have a generator, cover it with plastic. Next, duct tape the gaps of all hatches in the cockpit deck. This will help prevent water from getting in the engines, particularly the generator. Then, make sure the deck scuppers are clear. Tightly lash fixed, folding swim ladders. Remove all antennas, don't just fold them down. If there are electric panels in the cockpit, tape around the doors. Remove all loose deck equipment such as fender racks, life rafts and anchors. Before leaving the boat, tape over the companionway door jamb. If you have a gas boat, we recommend that you shut off the fuel valves to all engines, especially the valve at the tanks.