It's time for some 'spring cleaning'
By
Roger Marshall, Technical Editor (Soundings)
Clean the boot top and the waterline of scum before painting. The cost of boot top paint is $25-$40.
Check gas monitors/sniffers/detectors and all electrical connections to your electric stove. There should be no wire abrasion or loose connections. Hopefully, you cleaned the refrigerator/icebox last fall and tossed out the garbage. If you didn't, that green, fuzzy piece of cheese will have to be tossed, as will all other food. Then clean and disinfect the unit. You may want to have a technician check the refrigerant levels and the compressor belt tension, and lubricate any bearings before you run the machine. Eyeball all storage spaces to ensure they are clean and do not harbor animals. Head compartment If you have an odor in the head, flush the intake pipe or replace it. Clean and flush the shower grate and pan with warm soapy water. If all your waste water runs into a sump tank, get the tank pumped after you have washed the head compartment, galley sink and shower with warm soapy water. This will help clean the tank. You might also want to put a deodorizer in the tank before it is flushed. Check all the plumbing for leaks. Be sure to look over the pump seals, hoses, hose clamps, drains and through-hulls. Test the shower and faucets as soon as the tanks are filled. Bilge Check all areas of the bilge and run a bent wire coat hanger through the limber holes to make sure they are clear. If you own a new boat, lift the sole boards and vacuum throughout the hull to get rid of shavings, dirt and other residue that might clog the bilge pumps. Make sure that water poured into the highest part of the bilge can run freely toward the sump pump. Check around the keel bolts and washers for areas of compression, which indicate the boat may have gone aground and may have damaged the keelson. Have an expert look it over. Loose keel bolts indicate more of a problem. Make sure you have spare parts for your bilge pumps. Clean and run the pumps to make sure everything is working properly. You should check impellers and diaphragms carefully. They may need replacing after a few years. Make sure all the sole boards can be lifted easily and you can gain access to every part of the bilge. If necessary, plane or sand the sole boards so they fit properly. Remember, you are fitting out in fairly dry conditions, and humidity will make the sole boards swell. Be sure none of your bilge pumps can back-siphon. There should be a suction-breaking valve in the bilge pump line. Check, too, that the intake screens are clean. Lastly, check all through-hulls and seacocks, looking for signs of electrolysis (pitting or corrosion) and wear. Then check the clamps carefully. Clamps should be entirely stainless steel, with two clamps per fitting. Make a map of all the through-hull fittings for ease of maintenance later. Typically, a yard charges $50 to $75 to check each fitting. Electrical Make sure your bilge pump will run when your battery switch is turned off. Then check all the breakers and fuses in your electrical system. Turn on each circuit and measure with a meter how much current is flowing through each circuit. A very high reading may indicate a short circuit (and possibly an electrolysis problem). Next, remove the covers from each light fitting and check the bulb terminals. If they are green or corroded, replace them. Give each terminal a light spray with CRC or equivalent. Look for signs of chafe on all visible wiring and replace any damaged wires. Get a technician to check over the electronics installation. Stray currents can wreak havoc on your zincs and running gear. Check all circuitry to make sure there are no short circuits, open circuits or wires that go nowhere. Make sure mast wiring is watertight and the connections are protected against corrosion. Check running lights, replace the bulbs and make sure you have battery-powered backup running lights if you spend a lot of time at sea. Check all electrical connections to antennas and instruments. A common cause of instrument readout failures is faulty antenna wiring. Fresh water system Check all hose connections to your tanks to make sure none are cracked or broken. Open and close all valves to make sure they work properly. Pumps Steering gear • With wire steering, check that the steering cables are taut and that each sheave has a guard over it to prevent the cable from dropping off the sheave when it has tension on it. • With hydraulic steering, make sure all fluid reservoirs are filled. Check all hoses and joints for signs of leakage and replace or repair as necessary. Make sure the hydraulic rams are well lubricated and move freely. • With cable steering, inspect all cables for signs of wear or chafe and check the connections at each end of the cable. If you find any damage, repair or replace it. Check that each cable curves in a wide arc; tight bends will cause excess wear or binding of the cable. Check your cable controls to make sure you can easily find neutral, forward or reverse. Throttle and gearshift cables While you are checking the steering gear, look over the throttle and gearshift controls. Make sure that each is lubricated and easy to use, without any stiffness. Electronics Inspect all interior lights and replace bulbs as required. Check all the ground wire connections and terminals. Test your electronic equipment for good signal strength before you leave the dock. If you do not get good reception, have the gear looked over by an expert. Hard dinghies Varnish or paint the bottom boards if needed. Check to see that the oars are not worn or damaged. Look around the rowlocks or thole pins for damage and repair as needed. Make sure the painter can be attached properly and is in good shape. If it is damaged, replace it. If you keep your dinghy aboard your boat, make sure that chocks, tie-down lines and covers are in good shape. Inflatables Then give the valves a once-over. The seals and rings should be replaced every two years. Inflate the boat and leave it for a week to make sure it stays inflated. If it collapses, have your local dealer repair it. Then check the tether to make sure that it is sound and long enough. If your inflatable has wooden bottom boards, they should probably be revarnished. A nonskid additive may be added to the varnish. Make sure your outboard can be locked in place and that the keys are in a safe place. Know where the drain plug is and put it in the boat before you launch it. Trailers Replace burned-out light bulbs and make sure all electrical connections are good. A useful tip is to coat the edges of trailer lights with clear nail polish to help seal them. Next, clean and grease or oil the winch; test tire pressure all around, including the spare. Check all the trailer rollers and lubricate or replace as required. Test your towing vehicle brakes, hydraulic levels and lights. And lastly, check your boat (and in some states the trailer) registration or documentation and make sure everything is in good order. Read over your insurance policy to verify what it covers.
Inside the boat
One area of critical importance is the galley. The most important job in the galley is to check over the stove, especially if it is fueled by propane (LPG) or liquified natural gas (LNG). To make sure there are no leaks, check hoses with soapy water. Make sure the tank locker drain is clear. Get the LPG or LNG tanks filled.
Run warm soapy water through the marine head. It's a good idea to put a small amount of lanolin in the soapy water to lubricate the seals.
Make sure the bilge is clean. After cleaning, I prefer to paint the bilge with a light gray or buff paint. That way, problems such as an oil leak or belt dust are immediately visible.
Electrical fittings are highly prone to corrosion and should be inspected regularly. The main engine wiring is regularly exposed to heat and vibration and may chafe against other engine compartment fittings.
Remove the covers from your fresh water tanks and clean them thoroughly. Make sure replacement gaskets fit properly.
Ensure that all belts are tensioned and aligned properly. Check your fuel and water tanks carefully before launching.
Steering failure can have serious consequences, so it is imperative that you check over your system carefully. Different types of steering gear - wire, hydraulic or cable - require different types of maintenance.
Make sure all bolts are tight and corrosion-free and that there are reinforcing blocks where blocks are bolted to the hull or a bulkhead.
Remove the compass and check that the chain is lubricated and free to run. Go aft and check the quadrant. Make sure the keyway is not bent or damaged and that the quadrant is firmly fixed to the rudder stock. If you have an autopilot quadrant, make sure it also is firmly fixed to the shaft.
When checking the friction in the steering system, I hang a one-pound weight one foot from the center of the steering wheel. If the wheel does not move freely with this weight, it is too stiff and needs to be loosened.
Check that the quadrant arm is firmly fixed to the rudder shaft and that the rudder or rudders move easily.
Spray the ram and pins with an anti-corrosive lubricant.
Change the batteries in all your hand-held electronic gear (VHF, GPS and so on). Check that the connections on your mounted electronics are good and free of corrosion. Check wiring for chafe and corrosion, especially at terminals and in wet areas. Inspect all antennas and connections.
Make sure the dinghy buoyancy bags or watertight lockers are in good shape. Inspect the rubrail for protruding edges, nails or worn spots and repair any damage.
Check to see if mice have damaged the inflatable. Look for seams that are lifting and have your inflatable dealer reglue.
Check the trailer for corrosion and repaint or touch up rusted areas. Lubricate the tongue, jack and wheel. Inspect the trailer wheels and lubricate with waterproof grease as required.
