Winterizing

Winterizing Checklist

Engine and Gear Train

  • Change the engine oil, transmission oil and antifreeze.
  • Drain the raw-water system, taking particular care to empty all low spots.
  • Remove rubber pump impellers, lightly grease with petroleum jelly and replace.
  • Leave the pump cover screws loose so that impellers won't stick in the pump housings.
  • Run the engine for a few seconds to drive any remaining water out of the exhaust.
  • Wash salt crystals out of any vented loops.
  • Check the primary fuel filter and fuel tank for water and sediment. Keep a diesel tank full to cut down on condensation.
  • Squirt some oil into the inlet manifold and turn the engine over a few times (without starting) to spread the oil over cylinder walls.
  • Grease all grease points.
  • Remove the inner wires of all engine control cables from their outer sheaths; clean, inspect, grease, and replace. Check the sheathing.
  • Seal all openings into the engine (e.g., air, inlet, exhaust) and the fuel tank vent. Put a conspicuous notice somewhere so you remember to unseal everything at the start of next season.
  • Inspect all flexible feet and couplings for signs of softening.
  • Inspect all hoses for signs of softening, cracking and/or bulging.
  • Check the propeller-shaft coupling setscrews or through-bolt.

Engine oil and filter changes

  • Never leave engine oil in an engine for an extended storage period because it can allow the pollutants to settle into a hard-to-remove sludge and let acids damage sensitive surfaces within the engine.
  • Loosen spin-on oil and fuel filters mounted directly to the engine while the engine is still cold. Back them off just enough that they don't leak.
  • Run the engine long enough to raise the temperature of the oil. The contaminants will now be in the oil and not in settled in the oil reservoir.
  • Shut off the engine and wait for all the oil to drain back down to the pan. Your spin-on filters can now be replaced easily.
  • Refill with new oil and run only long enough to check for leaks to avoid contaminating the new oil.

If Hauling Out

  • Check for propeller blade misalignment and Cutless bearing wear
  • Tighten any strut mounting bolts
  • Inspect stainless steel prop shafts for crevice corrosion
  • Remove prop nut to check under it

Batteries

  • Bring to a full charge
  • Equalize wet-type batteries
  • Top up
  • Clean the battery tops
  • Unless the batteries are being properly float charged (via a solar panel or battery charger with float regulation) remove from the boat and store in a cool, dry place.
  • Bring wet-type batteries to a full charge once a month.

Fuel Systems

  • With an inboard or outboard, stabilize the fuel first so that any subsequent operation of the engine will get the stabilizer through the system.
  • Many experts suggest filling the tanks completely to reduce the formation of condensation during storage. However if you use gas that contains ethanol, you might want to consider emptying the tanks as far as possible because the ethanol will hold any water that's in the system.
  • Consider winterizing the fuel system first or integrating those activities with the oil change to avoid excess engine operation on its new oil.

Hydraulic System

  • Drain a little oil and check for water or contaminants
  • Top up as necessary
  • Check all seals and hoses for signs of leaks and damage

Electronics and Electrical Circuits

  • Remove electronic equipment to a warm, dry place
  • Clean corrosion off all electrical terminals and connections
  • Protect terminals and connections with petroleum jelly or a shot of WD-40 or other moisture-dispelling aerosol
  • Pay particular attention to all external outlets, especially the AC shorepower socket
  • Open up coaxial connections if there is any possibility of water ingress; clean, repair as necessary, and reseal

Toilets

  • Drain and/or pump system with a 0% to 50% antifreeze
  • Break loose the discharge hose and check for calcification
  • Wash out vented loops

Pumps

  • Drain and/or pump through a 30% to 50% antifreeze solution
  • Remove flexible impellers, lightly grease with a Teflon-based grease and put back
  • Leave pump covers loose; tighten down when recommissioning
  • Inspect all vanes, impellers, etc., for wear and check for shaft seal leaks
  • If wintering in the water, check the bilge pump float switch, wiring, switch, and the state of charge of the battery
  • If antifreeze is used in any pumps, make sure it is propylene glycol

Freshwater Systems

  • Pump out tanks and drain system
  • Clean the tanks

Stuffing Boxes

If hauling out, repack. If wintering in the water, tighten down to stop any drip. Be sure to loosen before reusing the propeller or the shaft will overheat (post a note in a prominent place).

Seacocks

If hauling out, pull and grease all seacock plugs if possible. Dismantle and grease gate valves. If wintering in the water, close seacocks (except cockpit drains) and closely inspect cockpit-drain hoses and clamps.

Stoves

Drain a little fuel from kerosene and/or alcohol tanks and check for water and contaminants. Close LPG or CNG gas valves at the cylinder. Renew filaments on filament-type igniters at least every two years.

Steering

Lightly oil cables and oil or grease sheave and pedestal bearings. Remove cables from conduits; clean, inspect, grease, and replace. Check sheave mountings, bracing and rudderstops. Check rudderhead and tension cables. With pedestal-type rack-and-pinion steering, remove top plate and input socket screws; clean, grease and replace.

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