If you leave your sailboat rigged after it’s hauled for the winter, the rig will bear the brunt of the wind while it is on stands or on a trailer, since the boat cannot move as it does when it is in the water. Eventually, the vibrations caused by winter winds will elongate the chain plates and rigging, and wear out halyards that are allowed to slap against the mast. This is especially true where halyards chafe against the spreaders. It is very possible that the cost savings of stepping and unstepping the mast will be eaten up by repair bills.

Once the rig is removed, you can work on it at your leisure over the winter. This will ensure that your rig is in good order when your boat goes back in the water.

The first thing to do after the rig is pulled is to remove the windex and wind instruments, which are easily damaged when moving the rig. (Even if the mast remains stepped for the winter, you should remove the wind instruments so the bearings won't wear out.)

Then there is a host of other checks to make.

Start at the bottom of the spar and check for corrosion. Look for bubbles under the paint. Wire brush the bubbles out and repaint the spar with a urethane paint. You usually won't find bubbles on anodized spars, but you often do on painted ones.

Check all the wiring in the spar. If you had any problems with mast lights or want to install new spreader lights, do it over the winter when the spar is un stepped.

Tie a messenger to the end of each halyard and withdraw it from the mast. If you use rope halyards, soak each one in a bucket of warm soapy water to get the salt out and make the halyard more supple. Check each shackle and shackle pin for wear and replace if needed. If your halyards are worn, either end-for-end them or replace them with a new line.

While the halyards are withdrawn from the spar, check the sheave boxes and chafing strips, and replace any that are worn or damaged. Look for damaged or worn exit boxes.

Inspect the outboard ends of the spreaders to make sure the pins are fitted properly and that there are no distorted fittings. Then re tape the spreader ends. Check over the inboard ends of the spreaders. Look for bent pins and tangs and damage to trailing and leading edges, and make sure the bolts holding the spreader tangs to the mast are secure.

Look over the standing rigging for bent swages, damage to tangs, and pins, bent pins or elongated pinholes, corroded wire rigging and bent toggles. Check the ends of the rigging where it passes through the mast. Look for elongated holes in the mast, and bent or damaged parts.

Remove the mast collar and look for corrosion. If the mast collar is extremely tight, it sometimes will not allow air to get to the surface of the anodized aluminum, which can cause corrosion. Replace the collar and wedges when the mast is stepped next spring.

Inspect the masthead carefully. Make sure the socket for the masthead light or instruments is protected from the elements over the winter or corrosion will attack the connections. You might want to change the masthead light bulb so you won't have to go aloft during the middle of next season. Make sure all halyard sheaves, chafe strips and other fittings are in good shape. Check the standing rigging tangs and fittings for wear. Sometimes you'll find a halyard has crossed over the roller furling gear and has cut a groove in it. You should replace any damaged parts.

Deck gear

Deck gear is precision machinery, despite the way it is sometimes treated, and precision machinery should be maintained properly. There are some specific things you need to check.

Remove the compass if you don't cover your boat so it won't be exposed to the sun. If the alcohol in it is heated, it will expand and may vent out of the compass, leaving an air bubble at the top.

Make sure the handrails and stanchions cannot move. If they move easily, they should be removed and re bedded. If you have bent stanchions or rails, remove them and either replace or have them straightened.

Resurface or replace the nonskid on the deck, stairs and hatches as necessary. Make sure the hatch seals are watertight.

If you have a teak deck, check all the caulking. If it needs work have your local yard do it while the boat is hauled. Make sure all exposed wood is either varnished or oiled.

Check the helm pumps or pedestal (see section on steering gear). Remove and wash your bimini or dodger so the canvas won't degrade. Be careful not to bend plastic or acrylic windows.

Sheet tracks and cars Cars move easily on the track. If any cars have bent pins, take the car off and replace or straighten the pin. Make sure the lines passing through track cars or lines used to adjust track cars are not frayed or worn. Remove them and wash the lines in warm soapy water to remove the salt. This will make them more flexible.

Winches and capstans

Remove winch drums and strip the winch. Get all the old grease off the components (the grease may have reacted with salt water to produce a gummy substance) and reassemble the winch. Grease or oil as necessary. When reassembling winches get a spare parts kit from the manufacturer and use genuine parts. Make sure you put the pawls in the right way or the winch will not turn.

If you have electric winches, check the electrical connections inside the boat. Make sure there is no corrosion and spray with CRC. Check your anchor capstan or windlass. Make sure it is lubricated according to the manufacturer’s specifications. Check electrical connections for corrosion and spray with CRC. Replace bent pawls or damaged bearings.

Steering gear

If you had any steering problems during the last season this is the time to sort them out. Look over your steering gear carefully. If you have wire steering, remove the compass on top of the pedestal and check the chain and sprocket. They may need lubricating. Check all pulleys and guards, paying particular attention to the bolts holding pulleys to bulkheads or strong points.

If you have cable steering, make sure the cables are lubricated and are not sharply bent. Check the pins and toggles at the ends of the steering gear to make sure nothing is bent or damaged.

If you have hydraulic steering, make sure the reservoir is topped off before the boat goes back in the water. Check all seals, rams and holding bolts and replace or repair as necessary.

While you are checking the steering gear, take a look at the rudder bearings, the quadrant bolts and key way, the general condition of the rudder or rudders, and the ease at which the boat steers. If anything seems amiss, have your yard or dealer look at it.

Sails

Take your sails home and spread them out on the lawn to look them over. It pays to go through your entire sail inventory, scrubbing each sail, drying it carefully, refolding it and storing it in a dry place where rodents cannot get to them. Look for problems with the sails. Think back to last season and try to remember if you damaged a sail and put it away without having it repaired. If there is any question, have a sail maker inspect them.Sail makers may give you a good deal to wash, repair and store your sails for the winter. Here are a few things you should do for your sails. Check the corners of each sail carefully. Look for rings that are oval shaped rather than round, stress lines radiating from each corner, Mylar peeling off or other lamination on at the corners, ripped or torn stitches, luff or leach tapes with broken stitching, broken leach or foot lines, or peeling patches. If you find signs of any of the above, take your sail to a sail maker for a professional opinion.

On mainsails, check the batten pockets (both ends), luff tapes and leach lines. Make sure the headboard is not distorted. Check to see that reef points are strongly installed and have not been distorted over the season (look just above the reef grommet for signs of distortion or ripping of the sailcloth). Make sure that the numbers (if you have any) are not peeling off. If you have lazy jacks, check the sail for chafe and get it repaired if needed.

Check the spinnaker’s luff tapes for rips or minor holes and check the corners of the sail for wear, distortion and damage.

  A full winterization is everything but a tune-up. In other words, every element of the boat is serviced except for changing the fuel and electrical components: Those are best serviced in the spring.

Drain and Add Antifreeze to the Engine
Two things must absolutely be done as a part of the full winterization of Barren Island boats: The block must be drained and a 50/50 water and antifreeze mixture must be added to all raw water systems. These two maneuvers prevent the engine from cracking like an eggshell.

Outboards drain themselves if set in the running position. After draining, "bump" it over a couple of times, but don't fully start the engine. This precaution clears out the water pump.

Stern drive and inboard engines are not self-draining. You must first determine if the engine has a freshwater or closed cooling system. If you have either of the two, make sure the antifreeze in the closed portion is a 50/50 mix. Then, drain the raw water from the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbows -- and, on some engines, the oil cooler, the power-steering cooler, the raw water pump (if it is engine-mounted) and the exhaust manifolds. "Boaters need to determine if the exhaust manifold is part of the closed cooling system or is raw water cooled,".

For motors that do not have freshwater or closed cooling systems, all of the above maintenance must occur, plus the engine block itself must be drained.

Next, lubricate all the threads and replace the plugs, remembering to fill all raw water systems with the "magic" 50/50 antifreeze mix.

Fuel System Treatment
Because fuel rapidly deteriorates over time, it is imperative that boaters treat the fuel system. Pour in stabilizing fluid and then run the engine for a while, so that the stabilizer can make its way into the engine to prevent carburetor problems.

If you own an outboard with modern oil injection, this step is even more essential, because it is difficult to completely drain these engines.

Change Oil and Filter
"Twice a year, change the oil and filters,". "Do it during the fall when you winterize and again in the spring when priming for the season."

This biannual maintenance is necessary on the engine's oil and filter and the outdrive/lower unit's gear lube because detergents separate from the oil during storage. This phenomenon contributes to condensation, which in turn builds up nasty contaminants. When moisture mixes with sulfur compounds, acids form and gnaw away at the bearing surfaces.

Seal Electrical Connections and Lube the Steering Cable
Start the boat's engine and let it warm up. Afterward, the oil runs thin and can be more easily sucked out.

The heat also dries extraneous moisture. If you see any rusty spots on the connections, take a wire brush and clean off the debris. Next, spray a rust control product on the electrical connections, then applying a liquid neoprene compound to seal the connections.

During periods of storage, the steering cables can corrode. The easiest solution is to lubricate the cables with an anti-seize compound.

Fog and Coat
Purchase a high-quality storage seal product at a marine supplier. Follow the directions on the can very carefully. Spraying the fogging agent down the carburetor throat forms a protective shield.

After the engine is warm and dry, apply a product such as Corrosion Guard. It serves as a rust arrestor for the engine.

Service, Lube and Clean
During a full winterization, it is important to service the gearcase if you own an outboard. Some experts recommend changing the water pump every two years. They also suggest a full drive service to check and realign the engine.

Have all of the joints and bearings drained and lubed at the same time. Check the propeller.

Disconnect the battery and store it away from freezing temperatures. Put RV antifreeze in the head or portable potty.

Never put away the boat if you know it has a problem. Take advantage of the off-season: Look for discounts and an empty boat yard to get those problems diagnosed and fixed.

Finally, tidy up the boat. Remove all paraphernalia -- including life jackets and anything else best stored at home -- for the winter.